How to sew a bodysuit from Mojito swimsuit pattern ?
In this pattern hack, you will find a step by step tutorial to learn how to transform Mojito swimsuit version B (1 piece version) into a nice bodysuit !
Are you ready ? Let's go !
1. What you need
• Stretch fabric, such as : wide width lace, stretch mesh. • Stretch mesh if you want to add a lining. • 4,5 to 5m of lingerie elastic, fold-over elastic, or stretch lace. • Snap fasteners or a 5,7cm Hook&Eye closure. • Mojito, Version B pattern. |
2. How to alter the sewing pattern
Following the instructions of the pattern and tutorial, prepare the pieces n ° 5, 6 and 7 cut to the size that suits you.
If you use a fabric "blocked" in height (non-stretch), do not hesitate to add a few centimeters for the height of the bust. For this:
- Cut out the line indicated on your pattern.
- Move the upper part of your pattern from the desired value; and tapes a strip of paper underneath to add bust height.
- Then, retrace the seam line side so that the curve is pretty.
Now, we will isolate room n°6, the front.
- At the level of the thigh, remove the 1 cm of seam value.
- Measures half the width of the pressure leg (measure A).
- At about 15 cm from the bottom of the gusset, postpone this measurement A from the middle in front. This will allow you to have the right pattern width to sew the paw of press buttons afterwards.
- Retraces the thigh line to match measure A while having a nice curve.
- On your pattern, cut the paper on line A
- You will get 2 separate pieces: a front, and a gusset. This will allow you to easily open your body when you wear it 🙂
- Add a sewing value of 1 cm on the small part where you will come to sew the paw of press buttons.
Then you have the choice:
If you want to use a classic lingerie elastic (sewn on the outside of the fabric, then folded down inside) :
Add the 1cm of seam value that you removed previously on the thigh in front
Or, as if in this tutorial, you chose to replace the lingerie elastics with a lace stripe on the thighs (or a pre-folded elastic):
Do not add the 1 cm of seam value to the front thigh, but remove this value at the levels of the thigh back, neckline and armholes.
3. Cut your bodysuit
In your main fabric, following the most stretchy direction indicated on the pattern : cut once at the fold the pieces Back (7) + Bonnet (5) + Front (6) + Gusset (the new piece you have just created) NB: if your main fabric is very transparent, and you want to double your body for better opacity: cut the pieces you want to double in an extendable tulle In jersey 100% cotton : cut once at the fold the Gusset |
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And these are the parts obtained after cutting and unfolding the fabrics! NB: For this tutorial, we doubled the cups and the front with pink stretch tulle for more opacity, and left the back transparent 😉 |
4. Sew your bodysuit
As detailed in the tutorial, we will start by sewing the darts of the cup. If like us, you have lined the cups: sew the 4 layers of fabrics and sew the darts (as in the tutorial of the Mojito jersey) If your darts are not lined, simply sew the 2 layers of fabric and sew it together. |
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Turn your cup on the right side. | |
Place the right side of your cup on the right side of the front, by following the notches indicated on the pattern. Spin the fabrics together. |
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Add the front lining on top of it, still following the notches indicated on the pattern. Cut and sew the underbust elastic, with a stretch seam such as Zigzag or 3-stitches Zigzag. |
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Turn the front of your body over to the right side. Prepare the back and the 2 gussets. |
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Lay the back of your cotton gusset flat on the table, right side of the fabric visible. | |
Add the wrong side of the back fabric from above, right side of the fabric visible. | |
Then add the right side of the outer gusset above the right side of the back. Make a straight stitch seam 5mm from the edge. |
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Turn over the 2 gussets, and voila! You sewn your gusset "in sheath" | |
Then place the right side of the front on the right side of the back. Overlap the side seams and shoulder seams edge to edge to sew them together with a 5mm straight seam. Finish the seam with an overlock or Zigzag stitch. |
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Cut the neckline, armhole and thigh elastics according to the measurements shown in your tutorial. Distribute the gathers of the elastics evenly over the fabric, and sew them with a stretch stitch such as a single zigzag stitch or a 3-point zigzag |
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Finally, we are going to sew the snaps tab at the gussetopening. On the front: Sew the snaps with the eyelets on the right side of the fabric . On the back: Sew the snaps with the pins on the wrong side of the fabric. Make a straight stitch seam all over the length of the legs. |
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Turn the two pieces over to fold up the tab and make a 2nd seam: On the front: Bring the snaps to the wrong side of the fabric (inside the body). On the back: Bring the snaps to the wrong side of the fabric (outside of the body). Sew a straight stitch all around the snaps fasteners. |
And there you have it, you have made a super nice bodysuit !!
We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it inspired you for future creations👙
Do not hesitate to take a look at our Sewing tips and our Blog articles if you want to learn new techniques
And of course, if you have any doubts, don't hesitate to contact us :