Which equipment may I use to sew lingerie ?
It could appear difficult to make an homemade Lingerie, you can think that you will need specific sewing material or an amazing sewing machine?
Don’t worry, the material is quite basic, you only need to know how to use it 😉
Are you ready ? Let's go !
1. Cutting
Fabrics scissors :
Essential to cut easily your fabrics: well sharpened scissors!
To keep your scissors long, cut only fabrics with them (exit paper, glued area, and so on) if not them will be no longer as effective. Scissors for right or left handed exist.
Thread trimmer / small scissors :
Very useful to trim overhanging thread, or cut a piece of elastic.
There are many choices of thread trimmer or small scissors, basic or fancy!
Rotary cutter (and its cutting mat) :
Rotary cutter is THE discovery that we recommend! It’s like a pizza wheel, but to cut easily your fabric! Different blade diameter exist (from 18 to 60 mm).
This tool is very convenient, but you will need a cutting mat to avoid scratches on your table ^^
Appliqué scissors :
A specific scissor exist when you need to cut excess of fabric when you make an appliqué.
They have a round shape like a “pelican beak”, that help to re-leaft the excess of fabric and cut in the same time.
2. Sewing machines
A classic sewing machine :
To sew your lingerie, a simple sewing machine is enough. No need for the latest model with tactile screen or other fancy things ( we have our sewing machine since 10 years at least 😊 )
Yet, you still have to check that your machine has 3 kinds of point and that you can adjust them :
| Straight stitch Classic, but you can't make any stretch seam with it : |
 |
| Zigzag stitch : |  |
| Zigzag 3 stitches : |  |
| Optional but useful, overlock stitch : |   |
Double drive pressing foot
Sometimes you have slight difference between your two layers of fabrics when you sew. Right?This is because the drives of your feed dogs and your presser foot ( which is smooth, so the fabric slips easily) are not the same.
To avoid this issue, some sewing machine have a double drive pressing foot (professional machine are equipped with it). With it, the two layers of fabric are sewed at the same speed all together.
If your sewing machine isn’t equipped with a double drive pressing foot and if you have often this problem of fabric lag, you should know that some pressing foot are adaptable with your machine. You can connect it directly on the tube of the usual pressing foot, small “claws” go up and down in the same time as the needle, and drive the upper fabric (the “U” part on the picture).
This kind of foot exist for Janome, Brother, Singer and Bernina. You can also check on the manufacturer’s catalogue of your sewing machine.
Serger / Overlock machine (optional)
Overlock stitch machine enable to achieve stretch seams, which is very useful for lycra fabric. It is also used for the finishing of all the edge of fabric.
Finish are qualitative and the aspect is quasi-professional!
Cover stitch machine (optional)
Cover stitch machine is really optional. This kind of machine is rarely possessed by amateur seamstress.
If you have one, then you should know that it can be useful for elastic hem, and you can also find guide to realise piping finitions (elastic bias directly made with your fabric).
3. Needles
As fabrics and elastics used for lingerie are thin, you will need also thin needle, if not, you can be sure that you will have needle holes around your sewing stitch, and it could weaken your fabric (not that great, right?)To choose thin needles, look at the number written on your needle box. The smaller the number, the thinner the needle is: 60 (very thin), 75 (middle size), 90 (very thick).
The needles that we are interested in are numbered 70 and 75, and are sometimes called “stretch”.
If you have used your needle since a while, check that it is not blunt / damaged. It could scratch the fabric fibers, or the elastic, and create some defects.
Double needle / Twin needles
Those needles are very useful to make topstitching or elastic hem.
There are different gauge between the two needles, depending on the desired aspect: 2 and 4mm.
To use those needles, you need 2 thread reel on top of your machine, and your usual bobin under the food presser. It is better to make several test on scrap fabric before making your garment, because the tension thread should often be tighter to have a good stitch set up.
4. Threads
Classic threads
There are so many kinds of threads! The most resistant are those in polyester. They have to be thin enough to fit easily into the needles. Il y a beaucoup de choix de fils !
We find them in the forme of thread reel (from 100 to 500m) or cone (from 1000 to 2000m). Cones are primordial for over stitch machine, and can also be used for sewing machine. In that case, fill two bobbins, and replace the top thread reel by a bobbin
Wooly Nylon thread
This kind of thread is used a lot for lingerie and swimsuits. It is very soft on skin, that makes all seams very comfortable!
There are existing in Polyester or Polyamide. We use them for the looper thread.
5. Supplies
Now that you have all your material, you need to find supplies such as elastics, straps, hook and eye, wire casing…
To do that, we invite you to have a look to the article "Which supplies may I use to sew lingerie ?"
We hope that the informations helped you. If you have doubts, do not hesitate to contact us :
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